Boat washdown system installation

Re: Washdown System Installation Dingbat - thanks for the advice. I never thought about the seacock for the baitwell - mine does not have one! I have the boat in pieces right now so I will install one no matter what I do with the washdown system. On the coiled hose - again you make a good point. It is going to be stored most of the time so a good quality as in flexible garden hose on a quick connect would work a whole lot better. Thanks - I learn something new every day!

Mischief Managed Lieutenant Commander. Joined Dec 6, Messages 1, Re: Washdown System Installation My boat shares the through hull and seacock for the washdown and livewell. Not ideal, but if you don't already have a seacock for your livewell you should add one. If you don't use the livewell much, why not just install a diverter valve on the outlet of your existing pump and connect it to a washdown petcock so you can use the same pump for both?

Click to expand Outsider Lieutenant Junior Grade. Joined Apr 24, Messages 1, Re: Washdown System Installation A wash down and a live well have two very different flow and pressure requirements.

Depends on the pump and how it's plumbed. I use a Pro Baitmaster for both chores. Washdowns aren't just for anchors either. On a small center-console used for fishing, a washdown installed at the rear of the boat is an excellent solution for washing blood and fish guts out of the boat. Connecting equipment to an existing thru-hull or installing a new one can make anyone nervous. After all, an analysis of our BoatUS Marine Insurance files shows that about 20 percent of boats sinking at the dock are caused by thru-hull issues.

But with some common sense and the right materials, you can rest well knowing your boat is secure. First, keep in mind that any hole below the waterline has the potential to quickly sink a boat. In our BoatUS study, leaking thru-hulls, included stuffing boxes, baitwell discharges, washdown fittings, transducer plugs, bow thruster hoses, broken scuppers, and failed head discharges were all examples of leaking thru-hulls that sank boats.

Your thru-hulls should all have operable seacocks that can turn off the flow of water with a degree turn of the handle. Clamps all stainless steel on hoses should be snug and free of rust.

Two clamps are better than one if they can fit over the spud. Hoses at thru-hulls should be the reinforced type, which is usually a heavy black hose. Lighter, unreinforced PVC hoses can and do rupture and crack. Check the entire length of the hose, as excessive heat from the engine or chemicals bilge cleaners, battery acid, spilled fuel, and so on can cause isolated failures.

And should all else fail, it's important to tie on a soft wood plug at every thru-hull in case of emergency. Prevention Any "opening" in the hull, whether it's protected by a seacock or stuffing box, needs to be inspected periodically. The same is true for openings that are slightly above the waterline. Seacocks should be operable. Any that are "frozen" open or shut should be taken apart and lubricated. Many washdown pumps incorporate some sort of solenoid, or pressure switch. As soon as the trigger is pulled on the end of the hose, the resultant drop in pressure is sensed, which turns on the pump.

This serves two purposes: First, the pump only runs when water is required. Second, the pump isn't trying to force water against the dead end of a closed water outlet, which will damage both the pump and the electric motor powering it.

Pumps come in different outputs, and prices vary depending on the construction. I used a Groco C60, which is heavy because of its bronze components, but offers a substantial water flow of around 5 gallons per minute — plenty of power to blast away dirt. This pump may be overkill for a smaller boat or for occasional use, so do some online research to find the pump that best fits your needs and budget.

Irrespective of the actual pump chosen, it's likely that any installation will be a compromise between the ideal and possible. If you can, mount the pump inverted, in other words with the pump chamber at a lower level than the motor body, as there's less chance for water to leak past seals and into the motor housing. Before starting, think about where you want to place the outlet. Aim to keep wiring runs as short as possible. The current draw on a typical washdown pump is fairly high, and longer wiring runs can lead to voltage drop and decreased pump performance.

The length of hose is also important; if you're trying to suck the water too far or too high, the rate for flow at the nozzle is likely to be disappointing. The installation process will vary slightly from boat to boat, but by sticking to the steps outlined here, you should have a successful outcome.

Let's get to it. Install a thru-hull and seacock if you don't have one already. The slickest installations are self-coiling hose enclosures that plumb directly to the pump. These enclosures neatly store the hose and keep it out of the way but ready for use. If no panel exists, now might be a good time to install one. Use only marine-grade wire and connectors that have been tinned to prevent corrosion.

All connections should be crimped, using a crimping tool designed for this purpose. To guard against water intrusion and corrosion all connections should be protected with adhesive-lined shrink wrap tubing. Unfortunately, our services and products are not available at your location.

West Advisor Articles.